Kenya & Tanzania:
Planning a safari in Africa was a lifelong dream for my family. We decided to include parks within Kenya, Tanzania, and Rwanda. It was a trip of unforgettable moments, but also some unexpected challenges! Here, I share our experiences, tips for making the most of your safari, and practical recommendations for booking and packing for your trip.
Our Safari Journey
A safari in Africa has been a dream of mine and my husband’s, as well as my parents (aged 82 and 77 at the time of the safari). Years ago, my dad mentioned that a safari in Africa and seeing the mountain gorillas was the top of his bucket list. This stuck with me, and I knew I wanted to make his dream a reality.
Planning the Trip
I began researching safari companies by eliminating those that didn’t align with our travel preferences and budget. Key attributes I focused on included the company’s reputation, customer reviews, safety standards, and the quality of their guides. A commitment to ethical practices and wildlife conservation was also important to us, so I looked for evidence of this on their websites. I read testimonials on travel forums, checked ratings on review sites like TripAdvisor, and only considered companies that provided detailed itineraries with transparent pricing.
Once I had a shortlist of preferred tour companies, I contacted them with specific questions, such as whether any lodge or accommodation would have rolling or scheduled power outages, which could affect my mother’s CPAP machine. Natural Tours & Safaris stood out for their helpful and prompt responses. They assured me that our accommodation would meet our specific needs.
Just weeks after booking our safari, the global COVID-19 lockdowns forced us to postpone our adventure. The anticipation that built over the subsequent two and a half years made our eventual departure even more exciting.
Navigating Visas
Securing the correct visas for Kenya, Tanzania, and Rwanda was crucial. Here’s what you need to know:
- East Africa Tourist Visa: Covers Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda for 90 days, and allows for multiple entries. This was a must for us, as our itinerary had us entering Kenya twice.
- Tanzania Visa: An eVisa available online, valid for 90 days.
Make sure to check the current visa requirements and apply well in advance.
Navigating Challenges
Airport Experience
Despite our careful planning, we encountered a stressful situation at the airport. Although we had all our COVID-19 vaccinations and related documentation, we hadn’t realized there was an online process required to enter Kenya. We missed this crucial step, and it almost caused us to miss our flight from London.
It was our own oversight, but it turned into a frantic scramble to complete the online health declaration form and get the necessary approvals. This experience taught us the importance of double-checking all entry requirements, especially in the rapidly changing landscape of COVID-19 regulations!
Fortunately, we always allow plenty of cushion time at the airport before a big trip, which saved us. We managed to sort everything out just in time and boarded our flight with a mixture of relief and excitement. This situation was a reminder of the importance of thorough preparation and staying updated on travel requirements to avoid last-minute stress.
Unexpected Stop in Qatar
Before our safari even began, we had another unexpected hiccup! As we descended into Doha, Qatar for a scheduled short stopover, my father started to feel dizzy and short of breath. The flight crew contacted the airport and arranged for healthcare workers to be waiting for us as we disembarked. After an assessment, it was decided that my dad would be taken to an emergency hospital for tests. When we were able to clear customs and join my dad at the hospital, we were blown away by the state-of-the-art facility. He was in good spirits, and it was immediately clear that he had received top-class care.
When my dad was fit to travel, the airline rescheduled our flight and upgraded our seats at no extra cost, ensuring my dad was comfortable and ready to start our safari. The unexpected is always a possibility when traveling – kudos to Qatar Airways for their exceptional service in helping us manage an extremely stressful situation!
Day-by-Day Safari Experience
Our guide picked us up five hours after our flight had landed in Nairobi, which meant we had about two and a half hours of sleep before setting off on our safari.
Lakes Naivasha & Nakuru
Lake Naivasha
Despite losing a day to our stop in Qatar and the lack of sleep, our spirits were high. We took a small boat trip on the lake and encountered hippos lounging in the water, their massive bodies barely visible beneath the surface. Along the shores, we saw giraffes nibbling on treetops and antelope grazing. The birdlife was spectacular; we managed to spot an eagle, a kingfisher, and a pelican during our short boat trip.
Lake Nakuru
We then carried on to Lake Nakuru. Here we hoped to see flamingos and as many of the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, and African buffalo) as possible.
We checked into our first safari lodge and headed out on an early evening drive. Here, we experienced one of the rarest sights: two rhinos locked in a slow-paced battle, blocking one of the roads. Initially, we expected a dramatic confrontation, but the fight was surprisingly slow and deliberate. The rhinos edged backward and forward, testing each other’s strength without making aggressive moves. Although there was some blood on the road, indicating they had clashed earlier, the scene we witnessed was more about posturing and asserting dominance than an all-out fight. Our guide reassured us that such sightings were incredibly unusual, adding to the uniqueness of our experience.
It was also on this evening drive where we saw our first lions, and the sight took our breath away. Watching a pride of lions lounging in the grass was a surreal experience, bringing us face to face with predators you only ever see on National Geographic!
Maasai Mara
Next, we traveled to Maasai Mara, where wildlife was abundant and the landscape seemed to stretch endlessly. Maasai Mara is famous for its vast savannah and the incredible Great Migration, which was high on my dad’s bucket list.
This was the first time we saw wildebeest, and there were so many of them! We had to wait for a break in the group before we could continue on to our next accommodation. Our lodge in Maasai Mara was incredibly luxurious, located in a challenging terrain that required a special vehicle to navigate. Once there, we were rewarded with spectacular views across the savannah and stunning sunsets.
Leopard Sighting
During our game drives, we saw our first leopard. We watched in awe as it climbed down from a tree with its kill, walked to another tree, climbed up, and then seemingly fell asleep in the branches! It was a rare and thrilling sight. It was here that we first saw all the Big Five, as well as scavenger birds feeding on animal carcasses, hyenas, and crocodiles lurking in the rivers.
Serengeti
On day 5 of our trip, we crossed the border from Kenya to Tanzania. The visa and baggage check process at the border was straightforward. It was at this point that we changed tour guide for the Tanzania portion of our safari. Each local guide was an expert in the parks in their own country, so this allowed for the best possible experiences.
Lion Cubs
When we reached the Serengeti, it was even more incredible than we could have imagined. One of the highlights was encountering a lioness with her little cubs crossing the road. We had to stop our jeep and wait as the cubs, full of energy and curiosity, made their way behind their mother. They played with each other just like domestic kittens, pouncing and tumbling in the dust. Watching these young lions was truly magical; we were all speechless, knowing full well how lucky we were to see this.
Lioness Hunt
We also witnessed the intense and raw aspect of nature. We saw a lioness on the hunt. Initially, she was tracking a group of gazelles, moving silently and carefully through the tall grass. The gazelles, however, spotted her and quickly fled, leaving the lioness to find new prey. Undeterred, we watched in awe as she silently moved, blending perfectly into her surroundings. Eventually, she spotted a new target – a lone warthog. She launched into a swift and decisive attack, showcasing the raw power and precision of a top predator. It happened so quickly that all we saw was a trail of dust.
In a moment of remarkable nonchalance, the lioness carried her prize right between the parked jeeps, barely acknowledging the presence of numerous onlookers. She seemed entirely at ease, treating us as just another part of the landscape.
Cheetah Hunt
Another unforgettable moment in the Serengeti was observing a mother cheetah teaching her cubs to hunt a baby gazelle. It was absolutely heart-wrenching to watch, but equally fascinating. The mother would release the gazelle, allowing it to run a short distance before encouraging her cubs to chase and catch it. This cycle repeated several times, providing the cubs with essential hunting practice. This was another example of the harsh realities of life in the wild.
Ngorongoro Crater
Our next stop was the Ngorongoro Crater, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is absolutely teeming with wildlife.
Here, we saw lions lazing in the grass, ostriches strutting gracefully, and zebras grazing peacefully. At around midnight, in our resort overlooking the crater, my mom called me to tell me that my dad was feeling unwell again, to the point that a local doctor was called. This was, of course, extremely frightening and serious. After a quick assessment of my dad, the doctor suggested we drive to the nearest hospital – we woke our tour guide, who then drove us more than an hour in the pitch dark to the closest hospital. This journey turned into an unplanned night safari as we saw buffalo and hyenas along the way.
Hospital Experience
When we arrived at the hospital, we entered a dirt parking area, passing a man with a very serious-looking gun guarding the gate. We were led into a room that appeared to be part consulting room and part storage, with over 100 plastic storage boxes holding various medical supplies. After being assessed, it was agreed that my dad would need to stay overnight. We reluctantly left him in what felt like a very basic medical facility.
In a true ‘don’t judge a book by its cover’ situation, we returned the next morning to find that my dad had been admitted to FAME Africa, a non-profit organization that focuses on advancing quality medical care in rural Tanzania. The hospital, though basic in appearance, provided exceptional care. At one point, my dad was seen by seven doctors and eight nurses, all highly trained professionals. We even met one of the Directors, a nurse practitioner based in the California Bay Area, working with Stanford University. For the second time on this trip, my dad had unexpectedly landed in the care of some of the top medical professionals.
Amboseli National Park
With my dad back on track, we headed to our final stop at Amboseli National Park. Here you get stunning views of Mount Kilimanjaro, but the park’s dry conditions were a stark contrast to the lush environments we had seen previously. The sight of animal carcasses dotting the landscape was a sombre reminder of the challenges wildlife faces here. Despite this, Amboseli offered incredible sights, including elephants blocking the roads and inquisitive monkeys coming to check us out. The park’s unique environment highlighted the resilience of the animals that call it home.
The Magic of Safari
Every national park we visited was spectacular in its own way. From the lush landscapes of Maasai Mara to the stark beauty of Amboseli, each location offered unique and unforgettable experiences. Our safari guides from Natural Tours and Safaris went above and beyond, ensuring we saw as much wildlife as possible while accommodating my father’s health needs.
This trip truly was the most amazing family holiday!
Tips for a Successful Safari
Planning
Choose the Right Time of Year: Research the best time to visit your chosen safari destination. For example, the Great Migration in Maasai Mara typically occurs between July and October. Traveling during the dry season generally increases your chances of spotting wildlife.
Communicate Special Needs: If you have specific needs, such as medical requirements or dietary restrictions, communicate them clearly to your tour operator in advance. Our group needed to plan for more frequent bathroom breaks, so letting our guide know that meant they could arrange to stop at lodges we were near to.
Packing
Invest in Quality Gear: Bring high-quality binoculars and a good camera with a zoom lens to capture distant wildlife. Consider renting equipment if you don’t own it.
Pack Smartly: Lightweight, neutral-colored clothing is essential for blending into the environment and staying comfortable. Lighter colour clothing is also less interesting to mosquitos! Don’t forget to bring a hat, sunglasses, sunscreen, and insect repellent.
Bring Entertainment: While it’s essential to stay alert for wildlife in the parks, the long journeys between parks can be tedious. Having a book or other forms of entertainment will help pass the time.
On Your Trip
Stay Hydrated and Eat Well: Carry enough water and snacks, especially during long game drives. Staying hydrated is crucial, and having snacks can keep your energy levels up. The dry climate and lack of fluids is likely to have exacerbated my dad’s health situation.
Be Patient and Respect Wildlife: Wildlife can be unpredictable. Be patient and flexible with your plans. Sometimes the best experiences come when you least expect them. Keep a safe distance from animals and avoid making loud noises.
Prepare for Early Starts and Long Days: Safaris often start early in the morning when animals are most active. Be prepared for early wake-ups and long days out in the field.
Have a look at my Practical Advice for When You Travel with Older Family.
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